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Liquid Living Magazine


Casa Raab

Our desire at Casa Raab is to make your stay as pleasant and carefree as possible. We are certain that the beautiful surroundings, gracious staff, excellent cuisine, elegant accommodations, and a great swimming pool will make your visit to Casa Raab one of the most enjoyable vacations you have experienced.

The Casa RaabEstate is situated in the rural, traditional Mexican village of San Pablo Etla . We are located in the foothills at 5,500' above sea level, just 20 minutes north of Oaxaca City , and an additional 20 minutes to the airport . The Casa Raab estate consists of 40 acres of beautiful foothills that you can explore by hiking. It is connected to the village by both paved and dirt roads that you can safely walk to your heart's content.

Casa Grande: The Casa Grande is built in a "refined Zapotec" style, with adobe walls, floors of polished tile and locally woven rugs for accent, bamboo ceilings, and tile roofs. A stone fireplace at the end of the living room compliments the high, vaulted ceilings. All bedrooms are large with various combinations of queen & double beds. The four bedrooms all have their own private baths. The master bedroom is a suite unto itself, with a king size bed, a large bath that includes a shower and a sunken tub, walk-in closet, and a lounging area.

La Casita: This charming guesthouse is about 150 feet from the Casa Grande. It has two separate bedrooms with a total of three beds: two doubles and one single. Each bedroom has a private door into the bathroom. The bathroom has just been remodeled and has a great shower. The kitchen is complete and nicely equipped. A small dining area is located next to the furnished living room. Swimming pool use for La Casita is limited to times agreed upon with any renters in the Casa Grande.

Sleeping Arrangements: There are four bedrooms with six beds in the Casa Grande, two bedrooms with three beds in La Casita:
Casa Grande:
Master BR: 1 king bed, or can be split into 2 beds
Center BR: 1 Queen bed
Upper BR: 2 Queen beds
Studio BR: 1 Queen, 1 single

La Casita:
Master BR: 1 double bed, 1 single
2nd BR: 1 double bed

Swimming Pool: The tiled poolis long enough to swim laps, and deep enough to practice diving from the professional diving board.

Pool Policy: Renters in the Casa Grande have first option on the swimming pool use. Since the Casa Grande is built around the pool, the only way to insure privacy for the main-house guests is to let them make the decision about times that the guests at La Casita may use the pool. Renters of the CG are urged to share the pool with renters of La Casita, and with mutual respect, it always works out.

Staff: The basic staff consists of a groundskeeper, a maid and a cook. Additional staff is brought on when needed. They are Zapotec Indian people who live in the village. The family has been with us for 20 years, so the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming, and everything runs smoothly. The staff does not speak much English (or at least they pretend not to), but they get along very well with English speakers and language is never a problem. They like to act as personal tutors, and sometimes this interaction is one of the highlights of the trip. The staff has Saturday afternoon and Sunday off.

The US manager(s) live in a little house out behind the kitchen and are available for any assistance you might need. They can also help you with transportation, planning, and sometimes offer guide services in our 15 passenger van (see below).

All maid, laundry, and cooking services are included in the rental price. If you are pleased with the services the recommended tipping is $3.00 US per night per bedroom. The actual amount you tip will depend on your satisfaction with the services. Tip money is divided among the staff. At the end of your stay just give the total to Innocencia, the cook, and she will distribute it to the family members, for you.

Food: Meals are cooked for the groups renting the Casa Grande, and also the Casita upon special request. The renters of the smaller Casita usually prepare their own meals, unless they are part of a large group renting both houses.

The first evening meal and breakfast are furnished for the incoming guests with meal service. Usually on the morning after the first breakfast guests plan a menu and go shopping with the cook at several small, local markets. This will stock up enough food to last for four or five days. After this first, quick cultural experience guests will be back at the house with a load of produce and supplies that the cook will manage. From that point on two meals per day are prepared for you. (La Casita guests must provide food and groceries for themselves unless other arrangements are made in advance.). If you prefer not to go shopping, the cook, and sometimes a helper, will do all the shopping. You must pay for the groceries and the cost of a cab for her.

All meals are prepared using careful sanitary methods. We disinfect all produce as it enters the kitchen. The meals are served family style in the dining room. You will need to make your own arrangements for Sunday breakfasts, but the cook will prepare your Sunday dinner on Saturday and you can heat it up in the microwave oven. Purified water is provided for drinking, brushing teeth, etc.

Safety: Your safety and health are of the utmost importance to us. All the bedrooms have desks with locked drawers or cabinets, and we strongly recommend that you put any valuables into those safe drawers upon arrival. The staff is completely trustworthy, but with everything locked up you will have an extra feeling of security and can dispense with any concerns about your most important items.

US managers live just behind the kitchen in a little house, and are available to you, as well as looking out for your well being, throughout the trip.

The village is a friendly one, sharing a 35-year relationship with Casa Raab. Once you are in San Pablo Etla, and especially on Casa Raab grounds, you can relax and enjoy the best of Mexico . The only criminal threat to even consider in Oaxaca is petty thievery in a crowded public marketplace. Avoid this by leaving backpacks, purses, and wallets at the Casa. (see Money) Carry only photocopies of your IDs and leave the originals at Casa Raab, locked up.

Kids: Cultural adventure is everywhere, and the kids will begin to absorb it as soon as they get off the plane. The 40-acre estate will keep them busy exploring the foothills. Oaxaca City is child friendly, with plenty for them to do. Staying at Casa Raab puts everyone in frequent contact with our Zapotec Indian staff of 3, who have been with us for 20 years and are like family. They love children, and their extended family can supply baby-sitters if yours’ are quite young, and you want some help.

How Long: Lots to do and see for all. The biggest problem is finding the time for everything, which is why I always recommend at least 10 days for your trip...however many folks do come for one week.

Holidays: The height of the holiday season (Christmas) certainly sees a large increase in tourists, both international and Mexican. The town pretty much fills up since Oaxaca from Christmas through New Years is quite special. The rest of the holiday season is irregular, with the Holy Day fiestas (Easter, etc) attended by visitors and locals who don't have to work. When renting during the holiday season, not much changes out at the Casa. We honor the various special days, and sometimes the staff takes a day off. There is a lot happening in the villages nearby, and you can frequently walk to local fiestas.

What to Bring:

Passport: We recommend that you have a current passport. You can travel to Mexico with just a certified birth certificate and a photo-driver’s license, but it’s easier with a passport. Ask the airlines if you are in doubt about your documents. Since 9-11 the US customs is asking for passports to return to the US , so the best all around solution is to get a passport for your journey.

Take a photocopy of your passport before leaving the US . Once in Oaxaca put the passport into one of the locked drawers at Casa Raab, and then carry the photocopy with you for ID. You will probably never be asked for ID except when cashing travelers checks, and for this you must take the real passport.

Money: Before leaving the States get $50-100 worth of pesos for pocket cash. This will get you through any demands for money en-route: restaurants, porters, etc. Any major airline hub will have international money available. Just get some between planes.

Another option to get pesos for Mexico is the service from www.travelex.com. This is a great way to prepare for the trip. You contact them and, using your credit card, order cash pesos to be delivered to your doorstep…at a great exchange rate. The money will arrive in couple of days. You can even send back extra pesos after the trip for credit to your card. They also supply a service to send money to Mexico . If you do this before you leave, you will avoid the need to get cash pesos during your first few days in Oaxaca . $500 dollars worth of pesos will go a long way as you get settled in, buy groceries, etc.

The balance of your rental payment will be paid in Oaxaca . This may be more than $1,500 us dollars, and must be paid in cash pesos or dollars. Carry this down in traveler's checks, cash, or plan on several ATM withdrawals. Of course, the simplest method of getting cash into Mexico is to carry dollars on your person. The local banks and money exchange locations (Casas de Cambio) will change dollars to pesos. If carrying cash makes you uncomfortable, we recommend ATM withdrawals as the second easiest method. There are many ATM machines in Oaxaca . They usually have a 3,000 or 4,000 peso per-hit limit ($350us). Most US banks have a $500us dollar daily withdrawal limit. However, multiple withdrawals are possible if you set it up with your bank before leaving. The least desirable method of exchanging money is Traveler’s Checks. They require more time and energy to cash, and you will need your passport for identification when cashing them.

If you carry cash dollars with you, make sure they are clean bills with no writing or stamps on them. If there is a tear or a hole or any markings the cash windows and banks will not accept them.

Wallets and purses, in a crowded market situation, are signals for pickpockets. Avoid tempting them by reducing your money to cash-in-pocket. I usually put my money in the front pocket of my pants and then walk through crowded markets with my hand in my pocket over the top of the cash. Leave the purse at home in these situations, or else empty it of anything really valuable. Traveling light is the answer to most marketing and village side trips. Get a Mexican market bag (ask the managers) and use it instead of a purse, backpack, or belly pouch. It will indicate that you are a local instead of a tourist, and increase your overall safety from petty thieves.

If possible, in the states before leaving, buy one of those hidden money pouches that fit under your clothes somewhere. There are a lot of styles…just get one that suits you. Using one of these to carry your money (and airline tickets, passports) will give you a remarkable sense of security.

Clothes: Wear a nice semi-formal set of clothes on the plane. This will transport the eveningwear that you might want for a nice occasion in Oaxaca , and it also will get you a little more respect from officials in the airports. This comes in handy when passing customs, getting information or receiving assistance.

Oaxaca is in a temperate subtropical zone, at 5,500 ' above sea level. It can be hot during the day (80’s) and can cool to sweater weather at night. Travel light, bring comfortable shoes for both dress up and hiking. Remember there’s a swimming pool, so suits are needed. The layered method will prepare you for most weather…ending with a simple lightweight water-resistant jacket, during the rainy season; from June to October.

Shorts and T-shirts are suitable for lounging around Casa Raab, but not for visiting Oaxaca or the outlying villages. Since you are in a Victorian value society, dressing a little nicer is a sign of respect for the locals, and also sets you apart from the usual insensitive tourist. Long pants and a nice short sleeved shirt are suitable for men, while pants, dress, or skirt/blouse are fine for women.

Small Comforts: With the advent of NAFTA you can get almost everything you might want in the supermarkets and mercados. Suntan lotion, insect repellant, shampoos, peanut butter, good coffee and even pumpernickel bread can be purchased at the Gigante store. You might want to bring some specialty items like herbal teas, special chocolate, exotic coffee, etc. with you because they are still rather difficult to get here.

We have CD and tape players in the houses. Just bring your music. Also we have a huge selection of videos (200+); all great movies. The TV and VCR are in the Casa Grande and may be used at any time. Television is limited to broadcast channels, which are in Spanish.

Airfares, Packing, and Travel

Airfares to Oaxaca vary with seasonal demand. From Seattle it can be as low as $500 round trip to as high as $850. Internet shopping for fares can be a real money saver. If you do book through the Internet, arrange a way for you to pick up a printed ticket at the airport when you check in. This will help to prevent any future problems with Internet ticketing, altering schedules, etc. Also check for any hidden restrictions that might hamper your changing a departure date, or ?

As of June ’04, there is a direct flight from Houston , Texas to Oaxaca on Continental Airlines. This bypasses Mexico City and all the problems of a huge international airport with lengthy layovers. If possible, try to connect with this fast (2 ½ hour) flight from Houston . You will clear customs in Oaxaca . Make sure your luggage tags read: OAX as the final destination.

If you are one parent traveling with a minor child you will need to arrange an authorization letter from the other parent. This is extremely important: parents with children have been delayed in the states for over 24 hours while they sort this out. If you are one parent traveling with a minor, please call the airline and arrange whatever they request well in advance.

Here are some Internet ticket sale sites:


















Oaxaca calendar of events

Most visitors figure on bringing a load of handicrafts back with them and this can be done in your regular luggage. Travel with some empty suitcases or packs and fill them up on the return trip. For more protection and room you can buy a few "24 Gallon-Action Packers" (AP) and check them as your luggage. Action Packers are RubberMaid brand rectangular bins with locking lids, and are the maximum size for checked luggage. You are allowed two per person, and if each traveler took two, you would have incredible cargo space. All of your laundry can act as packing material on the way back, and any soft luggage carried down will also pack inside on the return.

If you are planning to bring back breakables, it is a good idea to take a roll of bubble material & two or three rolls of 1 1/2 " or 2" clear plastic tape. On the return, put one roll in your carry on luggage.. Make nice luggage tags on your computer before leaving, (carry the return ones with you for use on the way back), and tape them on your luggage, basket, or Action Packer.. Two per person, about 3" x 4". On the way down use "name/Oaxaca, Mexico /Casa Raab/ with our phone number (951-520-4023). On the way back use "name-US address-US phone number". Change tags in Oaxaca , before returning home.

Always use porters at airports in Mexico City Airport even if it is a short distance. They will haul the APs, suitcases, duffels and carry-ons, take you to your ticket counter, and act as guides.... for a buck or two. Either pesos or dollars work.

Customs: When you check in for the US flight to Mexico , you can have the luggage checked all the way to Oaxaca . (This assumes that you will not be staying in Mexico City , but flying on to Oaxaca directly) Most airline agents are unfamiliar with the fact that Oaxaca has customs. Checking the baggage all the way is a method to avoid the hassle in Mexico City , and will allow you to just breeze thru there with your carry-ons, doing nothing more than getting your visa after presenting your passport.. Oaxaca is a small airport and going thru customs there is almost fun.

It is crucial to visually inspect your destination tag on each bag at the airport when you check in for your initial departure. It must show the different travel legs in proper order, ending with OAX, (or what ever that symbol for Oaxaca is). If it ends in MX ( Mexico City symbol), the bag will come out at Mexico City customs, regardless what the agent may say. If you assume it is correct without visually inspecting it, it is a big gamble. A bit of concentration and direction here will get your bags to where they belong.

Also on the way home: When leaving Oaxaca try to have the bags routed to your final destination, not the port of entry. For instance with travel to Seattle thru Los Angeles , the final tag address should be SEA not LA. If it is LA, you will have to hand-carry the bags to the next gate and recheck them rather than just handing them back to a porter after clearing customs. Some airlines vary in their procedure, so it is good to check ahead for the cooperation/baggage handling between airlines that you will be using.

If you have several hours to spend in Mexico City , with luggage to recheck later, ask the porter to take you to a "bodega". This is a storage facility in the airport where you can leave your load in a locker. Heading South: Find the bodega in the domestic area rather than the one in the international area, since you will be departing on a domestic flight and will need to check in there. Heading North: find the bodega in the international area.

Either way: Then go down to near the "C" gate in the domestic end of the airport, find the stairs or elevator to the right, and walk across the sky bridge to the wonderful hotel across the street. Great restaurant (safe to eat here), bar, lounge area...this is the place to spend time when waiting...only 5 minutes back to the terminal.

How to get to the House from Oaxaca or the Airport: Casa Raab can be reached from the Pan American highway, heading north out of Oaxaca . If you are coming from the airport, Leave the airport, take a left on the main road and proceed into Oaxaca .

Once you come to the main intersection (about two miles), you will intersect the the loop or Periferico around Oaxaca . T ake a left and get into the middle or right lane. Then keep going thru the market area on the edge of the city (2 miles), eventually swinging a medium curve to the right. There will be a light as it straightens out. Go straight thru the light and to the next light; a “T” intersection..

At this point you will have to turn left on a one way street. Do this. Continue with traffic until you reach another major intersection: the PanAm highway. Go straight across the intersection and join the highway heading north.

Travel about 5 miles more until you reach the Benito Juarez -30’ high statue/monument/traffic circle, which is in the middle of the highway. Take the road to the right toward Trinidad de Viguera, or just “Viguera. Continue down the straight asphalt road for about half a mile, You will pass a paved right hand fork/turn, continue to go straight until reaching a “Y” in the road. Bear left at the "Y”- do not take the right turn down the hill to Viguera.

Shortly after taking the left turn at the “Y”, the paved road turns to dirt. Continue straight ahead on the dirt road until you get to San Pablo Etla and a cobblestone street. Continue winding along to the top of the hill to where the cobblestones end. Then continue to the right along a ridge until you see a driveway on the right. There will be two green stone pillars, with the Casa Raab sign on the left gatepost.

If you come by Taxi, the usual rate from the airport is $300 pesos one way, from town $100 pesos .

If you are driving from the north on the freeway , it should only take about six hours to get here from Mexico City , and five hours from Puebla . The freeway ends about four miles north of us. You exit onto the PanAm highway, which is the one that heads directly into Oaxaca . If you continue south towards Oaxaca , in about 3-4 miles you will come upon a huge traffic circle with a 30' tall statue of Benito Juarez in the middle. Swing around the traffic circle to the left, and drive forward toward Trinidad de Viguera, or just “Viguera” . After turning left at the traffic circle, continue down the straight asphalt road for about half a mile, You will pass a paved right hand fork/turn, continue to go straight until reaching a “Y” in the road. Bear left at the "Y”- do not take the right turn down the hill to Viguera.

Shortly after taking the left turn at the “Y”, the paved road turns to dirt. Continue straight ahead on the dirt road until you get to San Pablo Etla and a cobblestone street. Continue winding along to the top of the hill to where the cobblestones end. Then continue to the right along a ridge until you see a driveway on the right. There will be two green stone pillars, with the Casa Raab sign on the left gatepost.

Someone will be there to greet you.

Maps: Request a map-package from Anthony Raab or the Oaxacan managers, by fax or mail or e-mail. If you are not picked up at the airport, or if something changes in your schedule, or if you drive down…. you will be able to get there on your own. You can just show the map to a taxi driver, and he will take you there.

Communications: The most effective way of communicating from Oaxaca on a frequent basis is by e-mail. You can send and receive messages either from Casa Raab or from one of the many cyber-cafes in Oaxaca .

After 30 years of waiting, we now have a phone here at Casa Raab! It is located in the managers' house, and people can call you if there is a strong need. Phone calls to the states or other long distances should be made "collect', or have your friends/family call you back to avoid very high Mexican charges on the Casa Raab bill. Internet hookup for your laptop is in place with a local connection. Just let us know ahead of time that you will be needing internet service so that we can be sure to have the connection ready for you.

The Casa Raab phone number is : from the states 011-52-951-520-4022

Mexico City : 951-520-4022

from Oaxaca : 520-4022

Transportation In Oaxaca

You will be located on a semi-remote estate in the foothills, and transportation is an important consideration. There are several transportation options, ranging from using taxis and busses exclusively, to renting a car, to hiring a van service to ferry you around. It depends on your budget and the size of your group. With appropriate planning, we are able to supply exceptional transportation and guide services. Please check with us about this.

Taxicabs are a good source of local transportation, both the village cabs and the city ones. A one way trip to or from Oaxaca will be about $10 us dollars. To get to Oaxaca we can hail a cab for you from the village, if you give him some advance notice. Coming home, city cabs are readily available until around midnight . Village cabs can be hired by the day for about $60us. This is a great way to travel for groups of four or less, since it is about the same cost as a rental car, with the added bonus of a built-in-guide.

Local busses are available, but you will have to walk a mile or so to catch one. The bus service is good, once you get into the system and understand it. We can advise you about bus service once you get to Oaxaca .

Rental Cars are expensive, between $35-$65us daily. Additional insurance cost is very high. However, if you like to drive, have a smaller group, and want freedom to move as you wish, a rental car is great . Reserve and rent the car from the United States ; the price will be cheaper. Try Avis, Alamo , Hertz, and Budget. Prices fluctuate. Professional Tour-Guide services with large luxury vans are also available in Oaxaca . We can assist with these.

Casa Raab Transportation Services
We have several vehicles that we use. Transportation is usually a 1995-15 passenger van with air conditioning . Smaller needs are met with our mini-van.

After several years of testing various tour packages and transportation services, we have found that the fairest and most easily understood way to bill our clients is by the hour. This way there is no possibility of misunderstanding either the time consumed or the extent of the services. The driver/guide will keep a daily log of all expenses and hours incurred during the various trips to outlying villages, ruins and marketplaces.



Hourly charges are rounded off to the half-hour.

We can help you to plan the various trips, and estimate the time/expenses of each. This can be done in advance by email, or in Oaxaca . A simple financial guideline for the needs of the average “touring group” would be about $1,250 per week for the 15-passenger van, and about $1,000 for the 7-passenger van/driver.

The managers reserve the right to suggest or utilize taxis, when appropriate. One example would be a late night return from Oaxaca .


We offer two different kinds of tours. Day-Trip excursions to handicraft villages, ancient ruins, cultural centers and Eco-locations take an average of eight hours. Adventure Tours are multi-day events in which clients will be "on the road" for several days as they visit remote and fascinating locations in southern Mexico .

Folks going on tours, whether one day or longer, still occupy Casa Raab while they are gone. All the rooms are cared for on a daily basis. All valuables and purchases are locked away and guarded. "Home" is waiting for you when you return, and usually a nice meal as well.

Overnight trips will create additional housing and meal expenses, beyond the basic cost of Casa Raab. Any increased housing expenses only apply to the multi-day adventure tours, since the day-trips begin and end at Casa Raab. An average adventure tour will mean two or three nights in a hotel along the way. We will be choosing from hotels in the $50 to $100 per night range, unless otherwise directed by the client, or necessitated by destination.

Adventure Tour prices are negotiable with clients, depending on services

The 3-day Mountain-to-Beach Adventure's itinerary:

Day 1: 6 to 8 hour drive west over the Continental Divide and down the mountains through the rain forests to the beach town of Puerto Escondido .

Overnight in Puerto Escondido.

Day 2: Swimming, fishing, beach activities, hiking, birding, restaurants and shopping all day.
Overnight in Puerto Escondido or Puerto Angel (to the south)

Day 3: 6-8 hour return drive to Oaxaca via different route

Those wanting to spend more time at the beach, or choosing to skip the long drive home, can fly back to Oaxaca from Puerto Escondido. It is a 45-minute flight.

Check with Mexicana Airlines, AeroTucan for prices.

We now offer Adventure Tours to the Pacific, Guatemala , and the Caribbean .

Suggested Local Tours/Visits

A. Arrazola - Cuilapan - Zaachila

  • Arrazola - One of the main villages for wooden carved animals
  • Zaachila - Part-Mixtec, part-Zapotec village, with an amazing Thursday market.
  • Cuilapan - a Mixtec town and site of the Dominican monastery from the 16th century.

B. Atzompa - Monte Alban , Etla

  • Atzompa - craft village noted for its green pottery, home of Teodora Blanco’s family who continue her tradition of whimsical pottery with pottery making demonstrations
  • Monte Alban - Famous ancient Zapotec mountain-top capitol, a spectacularly restored ruin and museum
  • Etla - Noted for its traditional Wednesday market

C. El Tule, Yagul, Teotitlan, Mitla

  • El Tule - A vast ahuehete tree (a type of cypress) in the churchyard is claimed to have the biggest girth of any tree in the Americas . It is between 2000 to 3000 years old.
  • Teotitlan del Valle - One of Mexico’s most famous weaving villages, known for fine hand

woven blankets, rugs and serapes.

  • Yagul - a beautifully situated ruin 35 km from Oaxaca .
  • Mitla - a Zapotec religious center from after the fall of Monte Alban (after 750 AD). Mitla is also noted for textiles, clothes and mezcal. The main street is lined with wonderful shops leading to the ruins.

D. San Bartolo Coyotepec, San Martin Tilcajete,

  • San Bartolo Coyotepec - famed for black pottery, home of Dona Rosa’s family
  • San Martin Tilcajete - A village that makes hand painted wooden animals
  • Ocotlan - Home of the Aguilar sisters, makers of ceramic sculptures. The wonderfully

restored church is a must see

E. Places in Oaxaca

  • Zocalo - the social center of town, a restaurant lined park and people watching place extraordinaire
  • Rufino Tamayo Museum - pre-Columbian art
  • Museo Regional de Oaxaca
  • Santo Domingo Cathedral, built between 1570 and the early 17th century, originally the

church of the Dominican monastery.

  • Calle Alcala, shops, restaurants, money exchange places
  • La Mano Magica - an excellent place to purchase folk art, owned by Zapotec weaver


  • Arnulfo Mendoza’s family.
  • Teatro Macedonio Alcala, belle epoch opera house built during Porfiro Diaz’ regime
  • Juarez Market food and craft market one block from the zocalo
  • Abastos Mercado - the main market located on the Periferico where you can find anything

F. Market Days

  • Sunday - Tlacolula
  • Monday - Miahuatlan
  • Tuesday - Soledad Etla
  • Wednesday - Zimatlan, and San Pedro y San Pablo Etla
  • Thursday - Zaachila and Ejutla
  • Friday - Ocotlan

Websites for Oaxaca :

The best Casa Raab website with the most pictures is at greatrentals.com

Oaxacan General Information Sites:


Info # 1-800-446-3942


Puerto Escondido:

PICTURES http://store.corbis.com/search/productsearch.asp?sc=&search=oaxaca&hidrch=&hid

That's all for now. We'll see you in Oaxaca … Anthony Raab